Most people arrive in Kaza thinking of it as a stopover, a place to sleep before the real Spiti begins. It is actually the heart of the valley, the one place where everything the circuit has to offer converges. By the second day, most of them have revised that opinion. Kaza is the largest town in the Spiti circuit and the base for almost everything worth seeing in the valley, but it is also a real place in its own right, with a market, a cafe scene that genuinely surprises fi